How to Build a Wooden Blanket Ladder

This easy woodworking project is the perfect handmade accessory for storing and displaying quilts and throws.

Materials and Tools

  • (2) 8-foot 2×4 premium boards
  • (2) 4-foot 1-1/4” wood dowels (more if you are building more than four rungs)
  • clamps
  • drill
  • 1-1/4” drill bit (paddle bit or a similar product)
  • measuring tape
  • speed square
  • wood glue
  • miter saw
  • palm sander
  • stain (optional)

Measure and Drill Holes

Attention to detail and precision is undeniably important when you’re building a “ladder.” When you’re selecting your premium boards, be attentive to how evenly the boards are cut. Check for unsightly knots (not as common when you’re sourcing high-quality wood). Be sure the boards aren’t warped. Layer the two boards together on your workbench and clamp them together.

Emily Fazio

The ladder built here was designed to be 80 inches tall, with four evenly spaced rungs at the 16”, 32”, 48”, and 64” points. (You might see these measurements differentiated on your measuring tape, as that’s the common spacing for wall studs.) Use the measuring tape and a speed square to mark each of the four dowel holes to be cut on-center along the length of the board.

Emily Fazio

The holes for the dowels need to align perfectly in order to be level and to make it easy to assemble (one of the reasons the boards are clamped together). Use a drill and bit to begin drilling the holes for the rungs. Important tip: only drill about 3/4 of the way through the top board. The reason not to drill straight through both boards in one quick motion? When the drill bit exits the bottom board, it’s possible that the wood can splinter. Splintering wood is easier to avoid if you happen to have a drill press and Forstner bits, but I don’t, and I’m happy to say that my method was an easy workaround assuming you may also only have a simplified workshop.

Emily Fazio

When you’ve drilled 3/4 of the way through the top board along all four markings running the length of the board, put down the drill and unclamp the two boards. Flip the top board and you should see the a tiny hole where the tip of your drill bit poked through the other side, and observe that the bit also marked the top of the second board as well. You’ve transferred your marks correctly and now can continue cutting the holes for your dowels.

Emily Fazio
No need to re-clamp the boards (unless you wish to secure them to a workbench). On the board that was previously on top, flip it and use the drill to bore through the marked hole to clear away a perfect (not splintered) hole for your dowels.

Emily Fazio
Repeat this process on the second board. Following the marks you transferred, cut 3/4 of the way through the board so that you can see the tip of the drill bit beneath the board, and then flip it and complete the process.

Emily Fazio

Trim Feet to a 10-Degree Angle

If your ladder is also 80”, know that a 10-degree angle is what I used when I cut my feet. Height will affect the cut you make, so start with a smaller angle, and cut away more until you’re confident that the ladder stands securely at an appropriate (and expected) angle against the wall.

Emily Fazio

Trim Feet to a 10-Degree Angle

If your ladder is also 80”, know that a 10-degree angle is what I used when I cut my feet. Height will affect the cut you make, so start with a smaller angle, and cut away more until you’re confident that the ladder stands securely at an appropriate (and expected) angle against the wall.

Emily Fazio

Use Wood Glue to Assemble the Ladder

No hardware is required for this ladder – did you notice that in the materials list? The only product I used to assemble the ladder was wood glue.

Begin by applying a thin coat of wood glue along the holes on one board. I stress applying a thin coat because wood glue goes a long way. Use your finger or a small paintbrush to control application. Also, apply a thin layer of glue around the lower 1/2” of the dowels (not on the ends) and insert them one at a time into the board as it lays on the workbench.

Emily Fazio

Because the dowels and drilled holes are all 1-1/4”, the fit should be pretty tight. You may need to twist the dowels to get them in position. Monitor how far the dowel is emerging through the underside of the board. Try to get it flush or ever-so-slightly emerging (it can be sanded down).

Emily Fazio

With the dowels positioned vertically, prep the other board and the ends of the dowels with wood glue and help the pieces to align. Again, if the fit is so tight that it needs a little help, use a rubber mallet cushioned by a piece of natural wood (it helps to distribute the force and soften the blow, and protects against any marks that may be left by the mallet).

Emily Fazio
Allow the wood glue to dry.

Sand and Stain (If You Wish)

Use a palm sander along the rails of the ladder to smooth out any imperfections. Once it’s smooth, apply stain if you wish, or a coat of water-based clear polyacrylic to seal the wood.

Emily Fazio

Add Rubber to the Feet

If you have any concerns about the ladder sliding, trim a small rubbery piece to attach to the underside of each foot. A cushioned drawer liner or piece of thin rug pad works well. Avoid felt and fabric.

Emily Fazio
Source diynetwork.com

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